How to Install Laminate Flooring: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide
Tools and Materials Needed for Laminate Flooring Installation
Laminate planks, with the cutting allowance stated in the product's installation instructions.
Underlayment, where the product does not have an attached backing.
Tapping block and pull bar specified for the locking system.
Spacers for the expansion gap.
Saw for cutting planks, and a jigsaw or oscillating tool for door frames and pipes.
Measuring tape, square, pencil and a straightedge.
The moisture test method specified for the subfloor type.
Soft broom, vacuum and a damp cloth.
Knee pads, gloves and eye protection.
Transition strips and skirting for the finishing.
The tools and the underlayment are the ones specified for the product. Different locking systems use different tapping tools, and a tool that works on one product can damage the joint on another. Every requirement in this guide is subject to the installation instructions supplied with the product, which take priority over a general guide.
Before Installation: Site and Subfloor Preparation
Step 1: Inspect and Prepare the Subfloor
The subfloor should be flat within the tolerance stated in the product's installation instructions, and that tolerance is a product requirement rather than a universal figure. Measure the deviation with a straightedge at several points and in both directions, and record the readings. Where the floor is out of tolerance, it is levelled before installation: an uneven subfloor stresses the locking system, opens the joints and causes movement or noise, whatever the plank thickness.
The subfloor should also be sound. Loose boards, hollow spots, cracked screed and movement in a timber floor are repaired before the floor is laid, because the finished floor follows the subfloor beneath it. Dust, debris and any protruding fixings are removed, since grit in the joint is one of the causes of a joint that does not close.
Step 2: Check Moisture and Floor Flatness
The subfloor moisture condition is tested before installation, and the test method depends on the subfloor type: a concrete slab is tested with the method specified for concrete, a timber subfloor with the method specified for timber, and a gypsum-based screed with the method specified for that material. The readings are compared with the limits in the product's installation instructions for that subfloor type. A concrete slab that looks dry on the surface can still contain moisture, which is why the test is done rather than judged by eye.
Flatness and moisture are checked together, because both determine whether the installation can proceed as planned. Where a moisture barrier is required for the build-up, it is installed as specified in the installation instructions, with the seams overlapped and taped where required.
Step 3: Acclimate the Flooring When Required
Some laminate products require an acclimation period before installation and others do not. The requirement, the period and the conditions are stated in the product's installation instructions, and they depend on the construction and on the site conditions; the instructions also state the temperature and humidity conditions for the installation, which is where the room conditions for this step come from. Where acclimation is required, the planks are stored flat, covered and in the room where they will be laid. The planks are kept in their packaging until installation to protect the edges.
Step 4: Prepare the Underlayment
The underlayment is the one specified for the product. Where the laminate has an attached backing, an additional underlay may not be permitted, because it can change the behaviour of the locking system and may affect the warranty. Where a separate underlay is used, its type and thickness are those stated in the installation instructions, and its compression behaviour suits the plank and the locking system. The underlay is laid over the whole area and fixed as specified before the first row is placed.
How to Install Laminate Flooring Step by Step
Step 5: Plan the Plank Layout and Starting Direction
Before the first row, plan the direction, the starting point and the width of the first and last rows. Laying the planks parallel to the main window or the longest wall is a common choice, and the direction is decided before installation because it cannot be changed afterwards. Measure the room and check that neither the first nor the last row will be too narrow to work with; where the last row would be narrower than the product instructions permit, adjust the width of the first row instead.
The expansion gap is required at the perimeter and at fixed objects, and its size is stated in the installation instructions for the product and depends on the product and the room. A floor laid tight against a wall has nowhere to move, and the movement appears at the joints instead. Where the room is long, the installation instructions state whether an intermediate expansion joint is required; a maximum continuous length is not a single figure for every product, because it depends on the locking system and on the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 6: Install the First Row
Start in a corner with the tongue side facing the wall, and use spacers to hold the expansion gap. Place the first plank, connect the next plank along the long edge, and check that the joint is tight and flat. Check the first row for straightness with a straightedge, because the rest of the floor follows it. A first row that is not straight shows as an open joint at the far side of the room.
Step 7: Connect the Remaining Rows
Connect the planks with the locking method specified for the product, using the tapping block and pull bar specified for the locking system. Tap on the block rather than on the tongue. The insertion angle and the technique follow the manufacturer's instructions for that locking system. Stagger the end joints from row to row as specified, so that the joints do not line up across the floor, and keep the cut ends against the wall rather than in the middle of the room where possible.
Step 8: Cut Planks Around Pipes and Door Frames
Door frames and architraves are undercut so that the plank slides underneath, rather than cutting the plank around the frame. Pipes are drilled with a hole slightly larger than the pipe, and the plank is cut through the centre of the hole so that it fits around the pipe; a collar covers the cut afterwards. The expansion gap is left around the pipe as for a wall.
Step 9: Install the Final Row and Transition Strips
Measure the width of the last row and cut the planks to that width, allowing for the expansion gap against the wall. Use the pull bar to close the joint where the planks are too close to the wall for the tapping block, and check that the last row is straight and the expansion gap uniform. Transition strips between rooms and between flooring types are fixed to the substrate rather than to the laminate, so that they do not restrict the floor's movement, and the skirting is fixed to the wall rather than to the floor.
Laminate Flooring Installation on Different Subfloors
Concrete
The slab must be dry, sound and flat within the product's tolerance, and the moisture condition is tested with the method specified for concrete before installation. A moisture barrier is used where the product and the subfloor require it. Where the slab is new, the curing period stated for the product applies.
Plywood and Wood
The timber subfloor must be sound, firmly fixed and flat within the product's tolerance. Replace loose or damaged boards, fix squeaks and check for any sign of rot or insect damage, and level the subfloor where the boards are uneven. The planks are laid across the boards where the instructions require it, and the subfloor moisture is tested with the method specified for timber.
Existing Ceramic Tile
Laminate can be installed over existing tile only where the tile is sound, firmly bonded, flat within the product's tolerance and dry, and where the manufacturer's installation instructions permit it. Loose or hollow tiles are removed, and deep grout lines may need an underlay board to bridge them, subject to the product instructions. The finished height and the door clearance are checked before installation.
Common Laminate Flooring Installation Problems and Solutions
Why Does Laminate Flooring Separate at the Joints?
Cause: an inadequate expansion gap, an out-of-tolerance subfloor, a damaged or poorly milled locking profile, or movement from changes in indoor humidity.
Check: measure the perimeter gap, check the subfloor flatness, and inspect the profile edges on the affected planks.
Solution: correct the perimeter gap, correct the subfloor where it is out of tolerance, and replace a plank with a damaged profile rather than forcing the joint. Indoor humidity is kept within the range stated for the product.
Why Does Laminate Flooring Buckle After Installation?
Cause: an insufficient expansion gap, a floor laid tight against a fixed object, or moisture reaching the core at the edges or joints.
Check: look for a tight perimeter, a fixed object such as a pipe collar or a door frame, and any sign of water at the edges.
Solution: restore the expansion gap, relieve the tight point, and deal with the source of the moisture. A buckled core is not flattened; the affected planks are replaced.
Why Does Laminate Flooring Make Popping or Squeaking Sounds?
Cause: an uneven subfloor, an underlay that is not specified for the locking system, or a joint that is not fully engaged.
Check: walk the floor and locate the sound, check the subfloor flatness in that area, and check the joint on the affected planks.
Solution: correct the subfloor, use the underlay specified for the product, and close a joint that is not fully engaged. A joint that cannot be closed is replaced.
Why Do Laminate Flooring Edges Chip During Installation?
Cause: the wrong insertion angle, tapping on the tongue instead of the tapping block, or forcing a plank into place.
Check: review the technique against the manufacturer's instructions for the locking system, and inspect the profile edges for damage.
Solution: use the specified tapping block and pull bar, keep the insertion angle to the manufacturer's figure, and replace a chipped plank rather than using it.
Why Does Laminate Flooring Feel Uneven?
Cause: an out-of-tolerance subfloor, debris in the joint, or a plank that is not seated correctly.
Check: check the flatness at that point, lift the plank and check the joint for debris, and check the seating of the plank.
Solution: remove the debris, re-seat the plank, and correct the subfloor where it is out of tolerance.
Laminate Flooring Installation Mistakes to Avoid
Laying the floor without checking the flatness and moisture of the subfloor.
Leaving no expansion gap, or blocking the gap with skirting fixed to the floor.
Using an underlay that is not specified for the product, or adding an underlay over an attached backing where the manufacturer does not permit it.
Tapping on the tongue, or forcing a joint that does not close.
Laying the planks tight around pipes and door frames instead of leaving the gap.
Installing in a room where the product is not permitted, such as a bathroom with a shower.
How to Inspect Laminate Flooring After Installation
Walk the floor and check for movement, hollow sounds and uneven joints. Check the expansion gap at the walls, around door frames and at pipes, and confirm that the skirting and the transition strips are fitted without restricting the floor. Check the transitions and the door frames for a clean finish. Clean the floor as stated in the care instructions and check for marks left by installation, and keep the installation records, the product labels and the spare planks for later repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. How long should laminate flooring acclimate?
The acclimation period and the conditions are stated in the installation instructions for the product. A fixed figure is not a rule for every product, and some products do not require acclimation at all.
2. Can laminate flooring be installed over tiles?
Only where the tile is sound, firmly bonded, flat within the product's tolerance and dry, and where the manufacturer's installation instructions permit it. Loose or hollow tiles are removed first, and deep grout lines may need an underlay board.
3. Is glue required?
The product is installed as a floating click-lock floor without adhesive to the subfloor. Whether a glue-down installation is permitted is stated in the installation instructions, and the two methods are not interchangeable.
4. What causes squeaking sounds?
An uneven subfloor, an underlay that is not specified for the product, or a joint that is not fully engaged. The cause is located and corrected rather than covered up.
5. Can laminate flooring be installed in kitchens?
Only where the manufacturer's installation instructions and warranty permit the product for a kitchen, and where the product has the moisture performance stated for that use. Spills are wiped up promptly and the joints and edges are protected. A kitchen is not made suitable by sealing the joints, and a bathroom with a shower requires a product designed for wet areas.
6. What underlayment is recommended?
The underlay specified in the installation instructions for the product. Where the laminate has an attached backing, an additional underlay may not be permitted.
7. How wide should the expansion gaps be?
The size is stated in the installation instructions for the product and depends on the product and the room; a fixed figure is not a rule for every product.
8. Is laminate flooring suitable for commercial areas?
It can be, where the product's declared use class and test data support the expected traffic. The declared use class is read from the product's own report, and the engineering acceptance for a commercial project is covered on the commercial laminate installation page.
9. Can damaged planks be replaced?
A damaged plank in a floating floor can be replaced by disassembling the floor to the damaged area, or by cutting out the plank and fitting a replacement where the product and the layout allow it. The manufacturer's repair guidance is followed, and a spare plank from the same batch is kept.
10. How soon can the floor be used?
The floor is ready for normal use once the installation is complete and checked, provided the room conditions are those stated for the product. Where an adhesive is used, the curing time stated for the adhesive applies.
